The FINANCIAL — For some time I have been drawn to the geopolitics and development of the republics of the former Soviet Union, with particular focus on the region of the Caucasus.
Where I live (in Edmonton, a large city in western Canada), this part of the world is so poorly understood that many of my peers cannot begin to place it geographically. I have often been asked why I endeavoured to come here. I suppose that my own background, as a Canadian of Bosnian origin with a deep sense of social dynamics in the Balkans, positioned me well to be intrigued by places that blend histories, cultures, and identities. Nowhere do worlds collide quite like the Caucasus – a fascinating cocktail shaped by centuries of converging influences, ranging from ancient civilizations to the Soviet era.
As a student of political science, I tried to gather as much independent knowledge as I could about the Caucasus, but after sufficiently exhausting my academic resources, it was time to get a firsthand glimpse. I was fortunate to get an internship at the UN office in Baku, Azerbaijan. The Azerbaijani experience taught me a great deal about life in that country, but I knew from my reading on this part of the world that experiences can be vastly different between countries that sit side by side. With new knowledge and experience from Baku in the back of my mind, I sought to determine just how different Tbilisi, and Georgia, could be.
On the first day of my visit, I stood and looked out from Freedom Square, the first of many sights that would take hold of my attention over the coming days. All around the St. George statue there seemed to be endless attractions worthy of a closer look, so much so that it was difficult to decide where to begin exploring.
I decided to take in the charms of Dzveli Tbilisi (old Tbilisi) looming nearby, weaving in and out of the Old Town’s winding and hilly passages, resplendent with all its picturesque colours and balconies. From there, I moved upward to survey the city, finishing atop the mighty Narikala Fortress. Descending from this location, I settled into a leisurely evening stroll down leafy and cobbled Leselidze Street, with its many attractive cafés, shops, wineries, and small churches catching my eye.
I was intrigued by the magnitude of Rustaveli Avenue, and so Tbilisi’s main thoroughfare was the focal point of my second day in the city. I stopped to admire all the major buildings sitting between Freedom Square and the Rustaveli monument, from the former Parliament and National Museum, with its prized treasury and collection of artefacts, to the lovely Kashveti Church and Opera and Ballet Theatre.
Having walked through some of Tbilisi’s major streets, I was especially intrigued by the massive golden-domed cathedral that seems to rise over the city itself. It was clear that I would have to visit the Tsminda Sameba Cathedral. A long uphill trek proved to be well worth the time needed to reach the Cathedral; I felt quite minuscule in front of one of the biggest churches I have ever witnessed. Locals and tourists both gathered in droves in the face of this glowing spiritual heart, a recently constructed symbol of the restoration of the Orthodox Church as a driving force in Georgian society. This representation was unlike anything I had seen in Baku, a city where Islamic religious influence remains subdued.
Aside from these plentiful cultural offerings, what further stands out about Tbilisi is the closeness that the visitor feels to its natural surroundings, which became the subject of my interest on the final day of my trip. Crossing the glimmering new Peace Bridge, I took the cable car up to the monument of Mother Georgia, the proud guardian of Tbilisi, and marvelled at the view of the city her position provided. Protected by its motherly charisma, one can see rolling green forests that stand on the other side of her watchful gaze.
Exploring the path leading to this green space more carefully, the curious traveller will be pleasantly surprised to find a waterfall at the other end of the trail.
The co-existence of culture and nature in Tbilisi contrasts with many of the urban landscapes I have previously encountered.
Yet after visiting all these locations I was still left wanting, as there were many famous spots I did not find time to experience, such as the jaunt up towering Mount Mtatsminda.
Walking around the sights of the capital demands a great deal of climbing, so it is hardly a surprise that Georgians seem so fit! This is nevertheless remarkable when the traveller considers the calorie-heavy but irresistibly delicious offerings of Georgian cuisine.
As much as my greedy taste buds wanted to consume at least 50 Khinkali and 20 pieces of Khachapuri every time I sat down to eat in Tbilisi, my stomach flatly refused to accept that amount. The many sumptuous dishes on hand are lovingly complemented by the smooth taste of Georgian wine, in the land where the drink is said to have originated thousands of years ago.
There is great beauty to be found upon visiting Georgia. Natural beauty is only one such characteristic that springs to mind, when the visitor imagines an expedition through wondrous caves and soaring mountains. Yet much has to be said also for the beauty of Georgia’s culture and for the beauty of its people.
All considerations aside, if I had to identify only one reason to explain why my short experience in Tbilisi was so memorable, I would give all credit to the hospitality of the Georgian people. I found them always ready to provide a helping hand to an enthusiastic explorer like myself.
For this reason we are all inspired to come back, again and again.
Until next time, Tbilisi.
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